How To Repair Roof Shingles After Wind Damage

Published Oct 16, 20
5 min read

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When roofing shingles are not installed properly, you may discover that they raise up, leakage, and even fall off during the next windstorm. This kind of mistake can cost you more money in the long-run. There are likewise certain safety concerns to be conscious of when performing Do It Yourself roofing repair.

A roofing repair work can become a lot more hazardous if you attempt to perform a repair work when it is windy, rainy, or when the roofing is slick with wet leaves or particles. Transporting heavy shingles and nails up a ladder can also present a safety hazard. Other security issues originate from making use of unfamiliar materials or devices.

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When you pick to go the Do It Yourself path with your roof repair, you not only run the risk of losing money but also your valuable time and energy. Replacing shingles on your roofing system is effort that can take hours and even days, depending upon the extent of the damage. As the products are big, heavy, and challenging to steer, replacing roof shingles can be tough on the body.

It can be irritating to discover loose shingles thrown about your backyard after a storm. However, this is a common problem that has a relatively easy repair. If your roof remains in otherwise good condition, just the harmed area itself can be replaced to prevent water from seeping under the nearby shingles.

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For more info on how to repair roof shingles blown off by a storm or to arrange a roofing evaluation, call our professional roof repair work specialists at Beyond Exteriors today. installing shingles.

There are two techniques by which shingles are connected to a roofing system: roofing nails or adhesive strips. Usually roofing nails have short shanks, sharp points, and wide, flat heads that enable them to penetrate the shingle without tearing it. Some shingles are made with adhesive strips connected to the bottom which, when connected, produces a strong, water resistant seal to the shingle beneath it.

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It's great that the roofing system is not dripping (you didn't mention that) but improper installation will create leakages in the future. So, verifying a few key items and then formally informing your home builder (by certified, return invoice mail) of incorrect installation will protect your rights. I 'd check the following: Variety of nails in each shingle: Each roof manufacturer requires a certain number of nails into each shingle, typically 4 minimum.

( Where I live, 65 mph winds would need 5 nails per shingle.) You'll find this information on each wrapper around each package of shingles. If no wrapper is around, you can find it on the manufacturer's site. If you do not know the name of the maker, call the builder. Nail Positioning: I see this wrong on a great deal of tasks.

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Nails need to be above the top of the cut out in the 3-tab shingle, however about 1" below the mastic strip. The majority of roofing professionals wish to nail "in" the mastic strip. This is bad for 2 factors: a) it misses the shingle directly below, so there are only 4 nails holding the shingle on the roofing system rather of 8 nails, and b) it creates a little dip in the shingle due to the fact that it causes the shingle to flex down over the top edge of the lower shingle.

Hand tabbing is positioning a quarter size dab of roof mastic "by hand" under each shingle. Nevertheless, the majority of roof makers need hand tabbing "if the shingles have not self-sealed in an adequate time." This is a bit approximate, however "enough time" suggests "within the assurance period." (You can get that verified by the roof maker.) So, the way to check this is to go up on the roofing system and attempt to lift a shingle tab (bend a shingle tab up) (house shingles).

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The roofer will tell you the shingles will "self tab" down. That implies they prepare for the sun heating the shingle up till it stays with the mastic strip under each tab. The problem is that it might not get warm enough in your area or the nails are not set flush and the nails are holding the shingles up above the mastic strip.

Many roofing professionals will extend that to 6" or 6. 1/2". That provides the chance for the wind to raise more of the shingle and produces inappropriate nailing, (missing the top of the lower shingle, etc.) Too brief of nails: Nails must totally penetrate the plywood. Can you see the nails from inside the attic? Roofing sheathing is too thin: 1/2" plywood or 5/8" particle board minimum, I believe.



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